How do you make a frittata that isn't rubbery?

A good frittata is soft, a little custardy inside, golden at the edges and happy to sit on the counter for an hour. A bad one is a bouncy disc you could use to play padel. The difference is almost entirely about heat and timing, not about the recipe.

Gentle heat is the whole secret

In our experience, eggs pushed hard tighten, weep liquid and turn springy, while eggs cooked gently stay soft. So the stove stays at a moderate-to-low setting once the eggs are in. You want a quiet, steady cook, not sizzling at the edges and raw in the middle.

The cue: the edges set first and pull very slightly away from the pan, while the centre stays loose. That is right. If the edges are browning fast and the middle is still liquid, turn the heat down.

The right pan

A heavy, well-seasoned or non-stick frying pan that can go under the grill or into the oven. Size matters more than people think:

• Too big, and the frittata is thin, cooks too fast and dries out.
• Too small, and it is so deep that the outside overcooks before the centre sets.

We aim for a frittata about two to three fingers thick. That gives a tender middle and a good edge.

Enough fat

Be generous with olive oil or butter in the pan, enough to coat the base and come a little up the sides. It stops sticking, gives the edges their golden colour, and keeps the eggs tender. A frittata in a dry pan is a frittata that tears and toughens.

The fillings

Fillings should be cooked and as dry as possible before the eggs go in. Watery vegetables, like courgettes, spinach or mushrooms, should be cooked until their liquid has evaporated, otherwise the frittata weeps and goes spongy. Cooked potatoes, onions softened until sweet, roast peppers, greens squeezed dry, leftover pasta: all excellent.

Season the eggs well with salt and pepper, beat them just enough to combine, and stir in grated parmesan or pecorino if you like. Spread the warm fillings in the pan, pour the eggs over, and give it a gentle shake to settle them.

Finishing: take it off early

This is where frittatas go wrong. The temptation is to cook until the centre is completely firm, but it keeps setting for a while after it leaves the stove. So:

• Cook on the hob until the edges and most of the base are set but the top is still loose.
• Finish the top under a moderate grill or in the oven, just until it puffs slightly and the centre has a faint wobble.
• Or, if you are brave, slide it onto a plate, flip it back into the pan, and give the other side a short spell.
• Then rest it in the pan or on a board. It firms up as it sits.

Press the centre gently: it should feel just set, like a soft cushion, not like a rubber ball.

Warm or room temperature

A frittata is arguably better warm or at room temperature than straight from the heat. The texture relaxes and the flavours come through. That makes it ideal for lunch boxes, picnics and dinners where you want one less thing to time. Cut it into wedges or squares and serve with a sharp salad.